When we set out on our cross-Canada adventure, we couldn’t have known how differently we’d see our home province upon return.
Words & Images by Brandon Houston and Kianna Sunshine
Our ambitious route would take us clear across the country to British Columbia’s coastal shores and back again, but it was Ontario’s vast expanses that would both launch and conclude our continental crossing.
There’s something magical about pointing your car north and watching Collingwood’s skyline fade in the rearview mirror. The province we’d called home all our lives was about to reveal itself anew, first as the gateway to our cross-country odyssey, and later as the welcome sight of familiar territory on our homeward journey.
Those thousands of kilometres between departure and return would transform not just our understanding of Canada, but of Ontario itself. It was an adventure through our home province’s beating heart, where small towns serve up bold tastes and the province’s grandeur leaves you speechless.
Our first westward stop was Parry Sound, just three hours north of Toronto. At Trestle Brewing Company, the patio overlooked the glistening Seguin River and its towering railway bridge. A scene made better with a pint of South Channel Hazy IPA, a crisp Fielding Craft Cider, and a “Brewer’s Board” piled with Ontario cheeses, cured meats, and house pickles. It set the perfect tone for discovering small-town Ontario’s big flavours.
Hours later, Sault Ste. Marie welcomed us with hearty comfort food at The Whiskey Barrel. Known for its craft beer and Scottish-inspired menu, it delivered on flavour with golden, crispy fish and chips alongside tangy tartar sauce. Their taps were down, but a canned local IPA did the trick—proof that road trips are all about making the best of what comes your way.
Beyond “The Soo,” we reached Old Woman Bay in Lake Superior Provincial Park. The bay stretches out in a 3-km-long sandy beach scattered with driftwood, backed by towering 200-metre cliffs. By the time we arrived, the light was fading, so we quickly set up our Go Overland rooftop tent in a roadside clearing.
Falling asleep to the distant roar of Lake Superior waves was magical. We woke at first light to the most serene view: soft pink dawn sky, mist lifting off the immense lake, and the silhouette of cliffs watching over the bay.
Further north, we stretched our legs at Scenic High Falls before stumbling upon Aguasabon Falls & Gorge near Terrace Bay. Just minutes from the highway, the Aguasabon River plunges 30 metres into a billion-year-old granite canyon—raw power framed by ancient rock. It’s the kind of breathtaking spot you almost can’t believe is so accessible.
In Thunder Bay, we sampled a flight at Sleeping Giant Brewing Company, its name honouring the peninsula visible across the bay. Weeks later, on our return, we stopped again—this time at The Industry Social House. Its sophisticated yet laid-back vibe was a welcome change from the road, and over pints and shareable plates, we savoured one last city stop before finding a quiet lakeside campsite for the night.
Our final detour was the Muskoka BeerSpa in Torrance—part craft brewery, part lakeside retreat. Between hot tubs, saunas, paddleboarding on Clear Lake, and IPAs from Clear Lake Brewing Co. across the street, we fully embraced the “adult summer camp” energy. Under the stars and completely content, we reflected on the journey. Muskoka BeerSpa was the perfect reward after days of adventurous travel.
After crossing five provinces and three time zones, returning to Ontario felt like both homecoming and revelation. The familiar geography now carried new meaning—we saw it through eyes widened by two weeks of cross-country travel, comparing it to the magnificent landscapes we’d witnessed across Canada, from the expanse of the prairies to the mountainous ranges of the West.
And while the Rockies might tower higher and the waters of the Pacific might crash more dramatically, Ontario’s own brand of beauty held firm in our hearts. The endless forests stretching North, the vastness of Lake Superior as we wrap around its shoulder, the billion-year-old Canadian Shield beneath our wheels. These were no longer just features on a map but integral pieces of our provincial identity.
We found ourselves appreciating the depth of Ontario’s craft beer and cider scene, each brewery telling its own story of place and passion. The small towns we’d passed through possessed a charm entirely their own, distinct from the mountain villages and prairie outposts we’d encountered on our journey West, presenting us with an eclectic assortment of great restaurants and culinary experiences.
That final stop at Muskoka Beer Spa felt perfectly symbolic. A place where Ontario’s natural splendour meets its craft brewing creativity, where wilderness and comfort intertwine just as they had throughout our journey.
Floating in Clear Lake that afternoon, watching the sun paint the sky in familiar Ontario summer colours, we reflected on how this province had bookended our cross-country adventure. We’d left as a couple of locals who thought we knew our home territory, but we returned as travellers who truly understood its place in the grand Canadian landscape.
Some might say Ontario is just one chapter in the cross-Canada story, but for us, it proved to be both the profound prologue and the satisfying epilogue to an epic journey across our nation. One that we now realize we only got a small taste of, and look forward to exploring even more.